I’m calling it, Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle 備中松山城 is the oldest of the twelve original Japanese castles. Not to be confused with Marugame Castle (丸亀城) which is the oldest on Shikoku. Or Inuyama Castle (犬山城), Maruoka Castle (丸岡城) and Matsumoto Castle (松本城) that all very blatantly make the claim to oldest. Or Matsuyama Castle (松山城) which was day one in Shikoku on my quest to see the 6 of the 12 in one weekend. Originally built in the 1200s, this wasn’t a status symbol but a true fortress. It’s also the highest castle in japan on a 430m mountain. Which makes it also the only of the 12 to be on a mountain… We’re making sure it hits widgets by darn it!!
Rank Order
If Bitchu-Matsuyama is the oldest, wouldn’t it be called Matsuyama? They add the town name “Bitchu” to distinguish it from Matsuyama after all. They are both “pine mountain” castles. Here’s their mistake. Matsuyama on Shikoku, the TOWN is called Matsuyama. They didn’t do branding as well back then. Matsuyama (my favorite) for the win!
Getting to Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle
My theory. It’s remained all this time due to the fact that it’s a b**** to get to. Play on words with the town name accepted. You can walk from the 備中高梁駅 (Bitchu-kogen station) train station to the trail head at the bottom of Mt. Gagyu. Or you can take the bus to within a 100 meters of it. The bus station is immediately below the train station and the help desk can give you the times. Just say “castle” and you’ll be good to go. I’ll find my notes and get the update for you all as well!
Taking the bus
If you take the bus, don’t let that route fool you to think that it will be a horrible hike back to the train if you don’t want to wait. The walk back is mostly flat. It also goes by some of the samurai houses. But I digress.
You are looking for signs that say “松山城”, like this one. There are bamboo sticks at the trail head. Both if you are hiking or if you drove or got dropped at the parking lot. I highly recommend you take one.
Its a pretty steep 40 min hike from the closest bus stop and I hike fast. However, it was rather pleasant and I had no issues climbing in sandals. Point being, give yourself some time to get there. There is a vending machine 3/5 of the way up at the parking lot. Near the top there are automated signs that will start talking to you and scare you half to death. They do eventually speak English and are informative.
Storming the Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle walls
The size of the castle grew over the years and during the Tokugawa Shogunate period (1600 again), it was fixed up to create more of a castle town than it was. I seriously feel bad for whomever had to build these walls. Climb up a mountain, then build a wall, have fun! Here’s my go at it.
I would say this is the most adventurous of the castles and well worth the trip. Be prepared if it’s raining though, the trail probably gets a bit slick!
