Nomura Samurai House Spotlight: How to Visit Unique Kanazawa

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Located to the west of Kanazawa Castle, one of the 100 finest in Japan, resides the wonderfully well-preserved area of Nagamachi (長町). In the castle‘ day, this is where the wealthy samurai and their families lived. You’ll definitely feel like you’ve been wisped back in time walking these small winding roads. Then walk past the gate into the Nomura Samurai House (武家屋敷跡 野村家) to see exactly the splendor they lived.

Who were the Nomura’s?

Originally, Kanazawa belonged to the Kaga domain, it’s founder Maeda Toshiie and his successors are responsible for turning the town into one of the largest castle towns in feudal Japan. To this day, it’s quite a large city, but generally unknown on the “Japan Circuit” most tourists follow.

The founder of the house was Nomura Denbei Nobusada who was already a retainer for Maeda when he moved to Kanazawa. They were bestowed 1,000 koku of rice by the Kaga Clan and served the Maeda family until the end of the Edo period in 1868.

What’s a 石, koku? Literally, it’s a unit of measurement of about 180 liters. However, it can be used to understand how wealthy someone was as that is how they were paid back in the day.

Just like very few castles survived, not many samurai houses made it into the Meiji Era that followed. The Nomura Samurai House in Nagamachi was luckily only sold but began to fall into ruin. Eventually, it was restored (though the tea room is a new addition) and is now owned by the city.

Quick Japanese Lesson

Japanese facinates me so I like to break down the parts. You can learn a lot about history by looking at just the words to describe things.

Did you know there are kind of two words for Samurai? 侍, さむらい, samurai is directly the military retainers of daimyos in the Edo period. However, there is also 武家, ぶけ, buke. Which directly can mean “warrior family” but also can mean “samurai”.

Historically, buke refers to the upper, privileged class such as samurai. It’s a gender-neutral term. Did you know samurai only applies to men? Don’t worry, there were female warriors as well! 女武芸者, おんなぶげいしゃ, onna bugeisha, literally “female master of martial arts”, fought along side the samurai.

The Japanese name for Nomura Samurai House is 武家屋敷跡 野村家. The first part 武家屋敷, ぶけやしき, bukeyashiki, being “samurai residence”. 跡, あと, ato, means “site” or “remains”. 野村家, のむらけ, nomura–ke is “Nomura family”.

Inside the Nomura Samurai House

The rooms are set up simplistically, as you would have found them. There are artifacts from the samurai days including a suit of armor.

Architecturally, the ceilings are made with a special type of cypress wood. Above the doors are intricately carved 欄間, ranma, which honestly, just means “transom”. This is the space above sliding doors you will find in Japanese homes which allowed for airflow when the doors are closed. Good for cutting down on mildew and mold with so many natural features.

The sliding doors have a name as well, 襖, fusuma. They can be beautifully painted or plain. The vertical, rectangular panels can be slide from side to side and though generally, you would think of them as doors, they are also used often to change the shape or size of a room. They are the same size as a 畳, tatami, the traditional straw mats of Japanese homes.

High Ranking Garden

The Jul/Aug 2003 Issue of Sukiya Living Magazine Journal of Japanese Gardens ranked all house gardens in Japan (because we have to distinguish these things) and the Nomura Samurai House garden is ranked number 3. Further, in March of 2009, the Michelin Green Guide Japon awarded the garden two-stars.

One of the trees is said to be over 400 years old and there are cute koi swimming around in the pond. If you look closely, you’ll notice that there is more than one level to the garden itself. The stone lanterns add to the aesthetic.

Have Japanese tea in the tea house

Make sure you make your way to the stone stairway in the back of the property. After the Nomura’s had to sell their property, the house had begun to fall into disrepair until it was purchased by a man named Kubo Hikobei in the early 20th century. A few features were added by him, including this upstairs tea room.

Treat yourself to a simplistic tea ceremony and enjoy some green tea as you gaze out on the loveliness of the gardens from above.

How to get to Nomura Samurai House

Nomura Samurai House is easily accessible by the Kanazawa Loop Bus. If it is a nice day, it’s also not that bad of a walk from Kanazawa Station or the nearby Kanazawa Castle, which if you are into castles and working on completing the stamp rally, maybe why you are here in the first place! My preference is walking when I can as you get a good feel for the place you are in.

The Kanazawa Loop Bus leaves from the East Exit of the station, get off at the Korinbo bus stop. All trips on the loop bus are a flat rate of 200 yen. It is a 5 minute walk to the Nomura Samurai House through Nagamachi.

More to Do Near by

There is so much to do in Kanazawa! Definitely check out the three tea districts of the town that will transport you back into the Edo period. They are some of the best–preserved in Japan. Of course, don’t miss Kanazawa Castle.

There is a small beer scene in Kanazawa so if that’s your thing, you’ll definitely be able to find something. Lastly, I highly suggest getting a reservation for a kaiseki (会席) dinner. Kotobukiya is a great option.

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