高知城, Kochi Castle, is the only of the 12 original Japanese castle that remains ALL of it’s original Edo period architecture in the main citadel. Like the other castles, this one was also finished in the 1600s and is located on Shikoku, the fourth-smallest of Japan’s main islands. Kochi is a cute oceanside town with old history abounding. Not only is it cute, but it is also unique. Lord Yamauchi Kazutoyo didn’t just have military in the castle keep, it was also a palace.
- The best way to approach Kochi Castle
- Kochi Castle Main Keep – 3 or 6 floors?
- Kochi Castle Unique amongst the 12
- Kochi Castle Important Cultural Property
- Kochi’s whaling history
- Stamp Rally
- TeamLab Kochi Castle Illumination
- Getting to Kochi Castle and the Kochi Information Center
- Other things to do in Kochi
- Pin this for later
[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in September of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]
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The best way to approach Kochi Castle
The best way to approach Kochi castle is through the Otemon Gate. If you drove (don’t drive, it’s Japan! I kid, Shikoku is actually easier by car and a little easier as it’s more country so there seemed to be more parking. Trains are still easy to get around on though! Also, Koichi’s train station is beautiful), you’ll have to walk over to the gate but it’s also the way to go up to the castle so you shouldn’t miss it.
The Otemon gate is important because when the town was burned to the ground by a fire in the early 1700s, it was the only thing to remain (though it itself had some of its own work done in the 1660s). So if you are looking for 400 years of history, it’s in this structure.
Kochi Castle Main Keep – 3 or 6 floors?
After they were burned in the fire, the main castle keep at Kochi Castle along with the rest of the surrounding buildings took TWENTY FIVE years to rebuild. They were finished in 1753 to match the original specifications and managed to (mostly) avoid being torn down during the Meiji Era restoration efforts to remove all of the castles or any other disasters. Why mostly? Because the good majority of the castle buildings were removed.
While the keep or donjon may look like it is 3 stories, the interior is actually 6 floors.
Kochi Castle Unique amongst the 12
Kochi Castle is the only Japanese castle that has the Lord’s reception suite (how the pamphlets, in this case, decided to translate “御殿” or “palace”) still intact. Even amongst the 12 original castles still remaining in Japan. It’s unique that the lord’s residence was among the military function of the keep. Hence why it’s all there. This castle is more house than military in some aspects and you can see how the rooms went together. It’s amazing. (This one almost beat out Matsuyama as my favorite).
But what’s one palace when you can have THREE? The ni-no-maru (second bailey) which is the flat land before you head across the bridge to honmaru, had a palace as well. As did san-no-maru or third bailey. Those unfortunately were all disassembled during the Meiji restoration, but if you want to see a palace, check out Kawagoe, Kakegawa, Nagoya, or Nijo. There is also an imperial residence in Nikko.
As you can see from this picture, you get a sense of the minimalism Japan is famous for. There wouldn’t have been much furnishings in these rooms.
I thought it was a little sad to learn when they turned it into a park in the Meiji period that they destroyed all the buildings in the 2nd and 3rd bailey. But the museum inside Kochi Castle has models of what it probably looked like and the main citadel more than makes up for it.
Kochi Castle Important Cultural Property
There are 15 buildings at Kochi Castle that are considered important cultural properties.
- 天守 – tenshu, main keep
- 懐徳館 – Kaitokukan, the name for the honmaru goten or palace
- 納戸蔵 – Storage Room
- 黒鉄門 – Black Iron Gate
- 西多聞 – Nishitamon
- 東多聞 – Higashitamon
- 詰門 – Closed Gate
- 廊下門 – Corridor Gate
- 追手門 – Pursuit Gate
- 天守東南矢狭間塀 – Tenshu Southeast Yasama Wall
- 天守西北矢狭間塀 – Tenshu South west Yasama Wall
- 黒鉄門西北矢狭間塀 – Kurotetsumon Nishikita Yasama Fence
- 黒鉄門東南矢狭間塀 – Kurotetsumon Southeast Yasama Fence
- 追手門西南矢狭間塀 – Otemon Southwest Yasama Fence
- 追手門東北矢狭間塀 – Otemon Tohoku Yasama Fence
Kochi’s whaling history
One recommendation for travel in general, and definitely in Japan, look for themes when you go places. In Kochi, there were whale tails everywhere. Random statues and nuances that just make you go, “huh”.
Apparently, Kochi was a whaling town and there was a display in one of the wings of the castle about it. Though quasi gruesome and not to my liking, it’s a part of history and makes you respect what people went through to get food. The display, though cartoonish, was very intense. Not something you see every day.
Stamp Rally
Don’t forget to get your stamp for the 100 finest castles in Japan stamp rally. What’s that? The Japan Castle Foundation (日本城郭協会, Nihon Jōkaku Kyōkai) choose 100 Famous Castles in Japan (日本百名城, Nihon Hyaku Meijō) followed by another 100 after that!
As a goal-oriented person, it’s fun to check the castles off my list. But I would also just do it for the cute stamps! I recommend getting the books ahead of time. Some of the castles gift shops carry them but it’s not a guarantee. Yes, they are in Japanese, that gives it some clout I think!
TeamLab Kochi Castle Illumination
One thing I’m still sad about, especially if you know how much I love teamLab’s two Tokyo exhibits teamLab borderless and teamLab planets, is that teamLab did an exhibit in Kochi Castle! It was just a few months after I was there. Here is my plug for illuminations around Japan, something to keep in mind if you are traveling in winter! While teamLab may not do another Kochi Castle Illumination (they did both in 2018 and 2019!), that’s not to say there won’t be a different one.
Getting to Kochi Castle and the Kochi Information Center
If you are like me, you are going to be blown away by Kochi’s train station, it is BEAUTIFUL – but don’t get too distracted, Kochi Castle is too! There is an amazing tourist information center next to it where you could probably spend a few hours just there (even if you researched a lot for your japan trip, I highly recommend always checking out the information booths!).
Inside the information center is a reproduction of the set of a popular period drama depicting the life of a samurai hero. You can dress up and walk around the set, taking photos. If you need some inspiration about Japan, there are plenty of shows and documentaries about Japan.
The castle is an easy 20-minute walk from Kochi Station, or you can take the tram. But be aware you’ll have to transfer.
The easiest way to Kochi Castle by train to get to Kochi Station is to take a limited express train from Okayama Station. It takes about 2.5 hours so make sure you get some onigiri, or a train bento and maybe a beer ;). I will break from my train love a little in Shikoku because it is a bit easier to get around by car in Shikoku but trains are still a good option, they just don’t run as often as larger areas of Japan.
As with all the castles, I have tons more research in my notes, so if you have questions, let me know in the comments below! I’ll try and point you in the right direction.
Other things to do in Kochi
This prefecture is not lacking in things to see and do! Local to Kochi are a few things I’ll highlight.
日曜市 (literally, “Sunday City”) is a 300-year-old market that happens every, you guessed it, Sunday. Toted as one of Japan’s largest and stretches out over a kilometer from the Otemon Gate with hundreds of stalls to explore. There is also a smaller one on Thursday leading down to the water from Kochi Castle if you were to head to Yamauchi Jinja.
On your way to Yamauchi Jinja, you’ll notice a long building on the side of the road. This is the former Yamauchi Residence Shimoyashiki Nagaya Exhibition Hall (旧山内家下屋敷長屋展示館). A Shimoyashiki is the “suburban” residence of the daimyo or lord. Remember, three palaces were not enough! What remains is the lodging for the guards. Inside there is a display of various ship designs. Great for yours truly naval architecture love.
The original shrine where Yamauchi Jinya stands burned down during the war but afterwards in the 1970s was rebuilt to enshrine the Yamauchi line that ruled at Kochi castle. To be fair though, it’s very common for shinto shrines to be rebuilt every so often, even Izu, Japan’s most important, is rebuilt every 20 or so years so that the traditional building style can be kept alive but also as part ritual.
Another great thing for Kochi? They have a massive yosakoi festival in the summer. One of my things still to see. While you are walking around the city, you may notice a bright red vermillion bridge. A good photo spot it is the setting of a love story between a local monk and a young woman. It also is mentioned in some of the yosakoi songs.
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