The first time I saw Yosakoi (よさこい) was when I was in Japan on a work trip in 2013. I had no idea what it was called. I couldn’t read Hiragana yet and none of the signs had anything to give it away. It was hot and balmy in the middle of Tokyo, as August tends to be. My friend and I headed up to Yoyogi Park (Pro tip, there’s always something in Yoyogi on the weekends!) to see what was going on.
And I was blown away.
These festivals have a way of getting into your soul with the upbeat music and the high energy dance style. You may think that it’s been around a while, but it has a surprisingly short history mixed in with some very old elements.
History of Yosakoi
Yosakoi began in Kochi Prefecture on the island of Shikoku in Japan. There is mention that at the 南国高知産業大博覧会 (translating organization names is hard but basically the “Kochi Industry Exhibition”) in 1950 there was a performance of the dance. It wasn’t for another few years though that he Kochi Chamber of Commerce and Industry organized the first Yosakoi Festival in 1954. A multi-faceted attempt at recovering the economy and the people of Koichi after the war.
A bit of competition?
However, if you look through the internet closer, on the Japanese side at least, there’s definitely a bit of competition between Kochi and Tokushima Prefecture, whom already had Awa Odori festival. What’s Awa Odori? Generally considered the largest dance festival in Japan, it’s been taking place since the 1580s(!!). There are quotes to the extent of “let’s make a festival better than Awa Odori!”.
Let’s go to both!
With Tokushima’s festival from August 12 to 15 and Kochi’s from August 9-12 every year, if you have the chance — go to both!. Whereas they are both centered around dancing now, they are definitely still some roots to
What’s “Yosakoi” mean?
You won’t find that word translated in any dictionary that I’ve been able to find. Some say it’s a local dialect but really it’s more complicated than that. So the dance (which is based off of Awa Odori, by the way) was made in 1950 but the “official music” didn’t follow till right before the festival origination. There is an old folk song in Kochi prefecture that’s been around since Edo times that talks of a love affair between a Monk and young maiden in the castle town of Kochi. A completely taboo thing to have going on.
“よさこい節”
There’s a line in the song saying “Yosakoi”. Written in Kanji is “夜さ来い”, and though that’s not normal Japanese anymore, means “Come at night”. You see where this is going… Though I think there is some more morbid pieces to the song and I wish I understood Japanese better! Because that line is repeated a lot the song is just referred to as “よさこい節” or “Yosakoi Bushi”. That normally gets translated to as “clause” from what I’ve seen but can also mean “stanza” or “melody” which are more appropriate.
Due to the popularity of the folk song, it was one of the pieces incorporated into the composition. Most of the festivals I’ve been to are during the day BUT the original? Always starts the first day at night!
Five Necessary Requirements
There are now over 200+ festivals around the country, what are the consistent factors?
#1 Music
We kind of touched on this part with the meaning behind the word. It’s kind of similar with obon where there’s practically an “official” song. However, in this case, there legitimately is.
Be prepared to have this song stuck in your head after attending a festival: “Yosakoi Naruko Odori” (よさこい鳴子踊り) by Eisaku Takemasa. The song actually incorporates a few local folk songs into it from what I can tell. However, you HAVE to use part of the lyrics from よさこい節 for it to count.
Just the lyrics? you ask. So, there’s no copyright on it so where as the words are mandatory, many of the teams compose there own compilations to go with it. Styles range from the original “bon-type”, as I like to say, music to rock, samba, anything!
Don’t worry, the song will still get stuck in your head.
#2 Naruko (鳴子) or wooden clapper
Teams are allowed to have all sorts of props during their performances. However, you MUST have a Naruko. The kanji on this one 鳴子 can be split as “sound” and “child” which I think is hilarious. Originally, Naruko was a tool to scare birds hanging out at fields. They are small wooden panels with three wood “finger” sticks on each side so that when you twist your wrist, the sticks tap on the paddle and make a noise.
Traditionally, these are painted black and yellow. But now teams paint them all sorts of colors. Many times at festivals, you can find booths where you can make your own. I have ones with my name engraved on the handle.
There’s that competition again
Remember how I say there HAS to be a competitive factor between Kochi and Tokushima’s Awa Odori? Awa Odori is famous for its style with bare hands. So, of course, we can’t have something matching! So Yosakoi started to use instruments. Naruko was already used by the locals so they went with that.
While Naruko are “mandatory” for it to be considered Yosakoi, many teams have various other props they use as well. From parasols, to lanterns, fans, and flags.
#3 Costume
I’m not going to be able to do this justice. Sure, all dance styles have costumes. These are so amazingly unique though. When Yosakoi first started, men and women simply work Yukata. Japan’s summer traditional clothing of lighter cloth than kimonos. But now, these are works of art. Vibrant colors, different styles — though still harkening from their traditional pasts.
What gets me though? Most have “costume changes” that are built into the very fabric of the outfit. These have got to be absurdly hot as it’s summer usually when this is going after all! But it is like a game to see if you notice them mid act switching gears into something all together new.
# 4 Jikatasha 地方車（じかたしゃ）
OK, another weird local/old Japanese word. Jikatasha translates to “regional car”. These are trucks, so I guess its something like they were used regionally to move goods? Anyway, it’s basically a truck and what’s that have to do with dancing?!
Jikatasha didn’t show up until the 4th Yosakoi Festival in Kochi. They are a way to signify a new team and generally have the team logo or name on them. Think of it like a float. It also serves as mobile live stage. I actually wonder what they did for the music at first because this is how the sound systems and/or band reside now.
#5 Dance!
Where as it started as a specific dance based off Awa Odori, it’s evolved and become more fusion of basically anything you want. The best part too is this is open to everyone! You have men and women of all ages taking in on the fun. From small children to grandparents!
Main Festivals to put on your list
What started in Kochi has now turned into hundreds of Yosakoi festivals all over Japan so chances are you can find one where you are visiting. However, if you want to go to one of the “big” names, here’s your choices.
Koichi Yosakoi Festival
The original! What started with 21 teams and 750 participants, now over 60 years later, is closer to 20,000 dancers!
The Yosakoi Festival in Kochi is one of Japan’s 10 largest festivals. The festival is held from August 9 to 12 every year, starts with a fireworks display, it’s summer after all – Japan loves fireworks!
If you miss the main event, don’t worry, Kochi has you covered. Teams perform in the city’s central arcade every Sunday from May to July and in front of JR Kochi Station every Sunday from August to December.
There is also a museum you can go to which I missed when I was there for Kochi Castle.
Super Yosakoi in Harajuku, Tokyo
Since 2001, the local shopping avenue association “Harajyuku Omotesando Keyaki-kai” has organized the Harajuku Omotesando Genki-matsuri Festival or in other words Super Yosakoi! Are you seeing a pattern? These completely started as a reason to get people to shop!
Held the last weekend of August, it’s how I was originally introduced and a must see if you are in Tokyo. Performances are held at multiple venues with stage and parade performances.
Yosakoi Soran Festival in Sapporo
Yosakoi Soran Festival held in Sapporo is a combination of Yosakoi and Soran, a type of dance specific to Hokkaido. Around 1991, a student from Hokkaido happened to see the festival in Kochi and brought it back with him to Hokkaido, or so the story goes.
What started as 10 teams and 1,000 dancers in June, it is now a major event attracting some 30,000 dancers from Japan and abroad. Similar to the Snow Festival in winter, the main venue is Odori Park. There are both stage and parade performances to watch and of course, a lot of food!
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Love the photos ! Do you live in Japan ?
Glad you like :). Yes, I’ve been living in Japan for 5 years now. Have you been?